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On this opportunity we want to look into the processes relating to the construction, patterns, cuts and assemblage of a garment. We intend to reflect on how, on occasions, the assemblage surrounds and constructs the volume, and on others it unveils the body that is hidden behind the fabric.

A garment’s patterns can be cut and made so they adjust to a determined person. The designer has to have full and detailed knowledge of pattern making, cutting and dressmaking, in order to create a pretty garment that makes someone feel good. At the same time , the designer has to make decisions on how the flat geometric figures will later become a volume that will conquer the body that it’s dressing.

Sebastian’s work plays in the field of methodological contradiction: from the use of a rigorous learnt technique to the intuitions and the unforeseen events, which constitute the final garment. The designer works with the traditional pattern methodology Inesmoda*, where he places the pattern over the dress form and then fine tunes it depending on the garment he’s making. He works every silhouette, studying its proportions and volumes which respond to the drawn design or the one he has in mind. He also models garments on the dress form, using a technique called Moulage, which gives space for improvisation and an element of surprise. It’s a creative process where the design is being constructed step by step over the dress form structure allowing new ideas, volumes and shapes to be discovered in the process itself.

Generally, this creator uses cuts that make the body look slender by concealing it. The fabric dictates the shape and gives origin to structured garments; a strong internal process is the driving force behind the execution of the piece. This is how visual tensions are created amongst rigid sections where the fabric dictates or other soft ones where the fabric breathes and hangs.

*Pattern making method used in Chile.

Paolo Remedy’s photography is characterised by an exceptional use of technique where the clean framing and the strong influence of advertising language stand out. His recreated scenes almost completely separate from their referent and begin to create codes and internal relationships.


DISEGNER: Sebastián del Real · FLICKR · FACEBOOK.

MACKEUP: Francisca Vilches

MODEL: Elisa Joannon.